Ippokratous and Asklipiou: Two Streets, Infinite Microcosms

Some issues set off an computerized binary affiliation: salt and pepper; Batman and Robin; left and proper; Ippokratous and Asklipiou. These two streets in Neapoli don’t intersect; they run parallel, ranging from Panepistimiou and ending at Alexandras Avenue. On one, visitors runs uphill; on the opposite, it goes downhill. Alongside their flanks lie scattered neoclassical buildings – some well-preserved, others deserted and dirty – eclectic buildings from the early twentieth century, and Artwork Deco examples influenced by France, with ornate cornices. Amongst them, extra dominant in each top and quantity, are pre-war and interwar condo blocks, boxy and modernist, the youngsters of accelerated city growth, usually stained with town’s signature coffee-gray patina. That is comprehensible, as each Ippokratous and Asklipiou are arteries for buses and a whole bunch of automobiles that each day go away clouds of exhaust en path to Akadimia, Zografou, Aigaleo and past.

Yesterday and Right now

On the decrease flooring, you’ll discover notary workplaces, regulation corporations, and medical practices. Larger up dwells a mixture of previous and new residents, together with digital nomads drawn to Neapoli for a downtown expertise paying homage to distant properties. Within the penthouses, the fortunate ones bask within the beneficiant Attic mild and revel in unobstructed views of Lycabettus towering above. In a single such condo on Asklipiou lives Andreas Sinanos, a number one director of images and an erstwhile collaborator with filmmakers akin to Theo Angelopoulos and Michael Cacoyannis. He factors out the significance of sunshine in an area earlier than recounting what Exarchia was like when he first moved there many years in the past. “Again then all the schools have been close by: High quality Arts, Polytechnic, Physics, Chemistry, the College of Athens,” he says. There have been many neoclassical homes the place households rented out rooms with shared bogs and kitchens. “It grew to become a scholar city, and even after commencement, college students stayed. As soon as the schools moved away, dad and mom rented locations for his or her children in Zografou the place the faculties at the moment are. However as soon as these children acquire independence, they return right here on their very own.” Sinanos himself by no means actually left Exarchia whereas dwelling in Greece.

Again down on the road, the temperature drops as the sunshine fades, and at floor ground stage the wrestle between previous and current, emblematic of all of Athens, turns into extra seen. On one facet of the battle are tailors, tavernas, dry cleaners, mannequin interest shops, bookstores and small grocery outlets that every one appear to have been right here without end, however there are newer allies on this facet of the struggle, too. In 2005, author Manos Eleftheriou was passing by development at 118 Ippokratous and requested Nontas Papageorgiou, proprietor of Metaixmio Publishing, what was being constructed. Instructed it might be a bookstore and publishing home, he replied, “Once I die, bury me right here!” That’s how their collaboration started. Later, he introduced them his first novel, The Time of the Chrysanthemums, which received a State Prize. Metaixmio has since hosted literary occasions, guide signings, and famous writers such because the late Alki Zei, who stopped by each Wednesday, at all times munching on a cheese pie. 

On the opposite facet of the battle, particularly on Asklipiou however on Ippokratous, too, are a military of latest venues which have sprung up: wine bars, cocktail lounges, galleries, boutique flats – heralds of a brand new neighborhood id and the topic of headlines akin to “Why Everybody’s Going Out on Asklipiou.” 

Gentrification

Sociologist Eddy affords his reply to that query one Friday afternoon, seated at Kokki, one among solely two locations on Asklipiou that he remembers from when he moved right here for college in 2016. He feels fortunate – his household owned an condo purchased by his grandparents after relocating from Naxos to a constructing constructed simply earlier than WWII, full with air raid shelters within the basement. Again then, the road drew a extra inventive crowd. “Everybody knew the realm as a thoroughfare, and those that settled right here have been searching for one thing bohemian.” He beloved the early vitality. Patrons grew to become buddies, and small shopkeepers grew to become his neighbors.

He appreciated being near every little thing, and going out for a beer across the nook. Even now, he greets neighbors and native employees as they move by. However weekends have modified – he now has to wade by crowds from throughout Athens partying below his window. His constructing’s glass entrance door has been damaged 3 times by clumsy drinkers or offended brawlers, and he needed to set up double-glazed home windows because of the noise.

“We grew to become essentially the most in spot in Athens,” Eddy says. “Everybody is aware of us now. Gentrification started, and the neighborhood’s demographics fragmented.” He remembers that, in the direction of the tip of lockdown, Asklipiou Avenue – and particularly the steps by Aghios Nicholas Church – grew to become a gathering spot for stressed youth. The crowds then unfold decrease down the road to a store that served beers and drinks in plastic cups till midnight. “It was a celebration. Individuals blasted music from their automobiles. That’s how Asklipiou grew to become often called a energetic road. There was consumption, flirting, enjoyable. When normalcy returned, the crowds didn’t go away. Extra bars opened that attracted them.” He doesn’t thoughts, although; he believes “the road belongs to youth.” Nonetheless, he says, “It feels extra like an alcohol distribution heart now. On Sunday mornings, the road smells of urine.”

Vinyl as Fetish

This Friday afternoon, the air smells solely of exhaust fumes as a younger lady in enterprise apparel rushes previous me on Ippokratous, shouting into her cellphone, “They despatched us a authorized discover, so we’re suing.” Her voice is quickly drowned out by rock music blasting from Vinyl Metropolis, a document retailer established in 1991 and owned by Apostolis. He opened his first store down the road at No. 100 after noticing the excessive quantity of bus and automotive visitors. “All drivers look left,” Apostolis explains. It was a tiny 15-20 sq. meter retailer, and clients lined up outdoors. Again then, his patrons have been both collectors or children who had inherited turntables and listened to all genres: rock, jazz, soul, nation, new wave, and metallic. “Individuals used to buy information at American army bases. Over time, Greeks discovered to understand extra than simply Greek music.” Right now, vinyl has made a comeback. “It’s grow to be mainstream,” he says, and provides why he by no means stocked CDs: “They don’t carry a lot information … With vinyl, you hear the sound as analog, just like the band is correct in entrance of you. We hearken to music 12 hours a day and by no means get drained.”

Right now, individuals of all ages go to his retailer, even 13 and 14-year-olds who include dad and mom looking for Beyoncé albums. He performs them traditional rock: Dire Straits, ZZ Prime, Allman Brothers, Deep Purple, Led Zeppelin. He’s seen the neighborhood change drastically – extra individuals and extra vacationers. The vacationers, he says, are “full” collectors, constructing total libraries of vinyl.

Completely different Streets, Parallel Lives

From her condo additional up Asklipiou Avenue, Architect Gina Sotiropoulou notices the vacationers, too. “Many buildings have been turned fully into short-term leases or motels,” she says. “Total blocks have been purchased out, displacing residents who can’t afford the brand new rents.”

She loves the neighborhood’s vibrancy and it various, lively inhabitants. However she additionally sees a shift in its character. Each morning, she walks to her Exarchia workplace by way of Ippokratous or Asklipiou. “They’re very completely different streets,” she says. “Asklipiou is slim, with small sidewalks and a slight incline, at Lycabettus’s base. Ippokratous has extensive sidewalks and sunken entrances forming lined arcades – nice to stroll by, even when poorly maintained. Regardless of the visitors and the air pollution, for individuals who love downtown Athens, it’s a stunning stroll.”

On one such stroll alongside Asklipiou, you may bump into the Lemisios shoemaking workshop, now run by the fifth era of a household recognized for handmade ballerina-style footwear that they promote from a store on Lycabettou Avenue. Mario Katsalis, who moved the workshop from Kolonos three years in the past, says he’s “in paradise.” Although it’s not a retail store, passersby usually peer in or knock on the glass. Once they as soon as displayed a couple of gadgets on the market, they bought out rapidly.

A bit additional down was Mamadou from Senegal (he’s now moved to Ippokratous), who brings in materials from residence and tailors fashionable cuts. He notes how beforehand many shops have been closed, however now the road is alive: “It attracts fascinating individuals: younger, vigorous. They need inexpensive, natural cotton garments, 100% wool in winter.” Nonetheless additional down is Evangelos Makris, who returned from Chicago to open Paradice Tattoo, a studio with classic-style tattoos he discovered to create within the U.S. 

On Ippokratous, two current additions stand out. One is Polyamorous-Espresso-Fruit, halfway down the road – providing each espresso to-go and groceries, within the mixed-concept spirit of its sister store on Mavromichali Avenue, which sells drinks, vegetation and intercourse toys. Eleni and Alexandros, who’ve lived on Ippokratous for ten years, run each. Eleni remembers when rents have been decrease and parking was simpler, however she’s decided to remain: “I like the neighborhood; it makes me really feel alive.” The opposite new addition is Hygge, a well-liked Scandinavian bakery close to Alexandras. Its proprietor, Ann, spent a 12 months discovering the proper area. She desires individuals to really feel like they’re in Sweden or Denmark as they benefit from the small joys and style the flavors of residence that she missed.

Again at Kokki, Eddy finishes his drink as the road’s music grows louder for the night shift. “I’m pondering of shifting as soon as I end my grasp’s,” he says. His finest pal lives on Pangrati’s Archelaou Avenue, and each streets have adopted related trajectories. Whereas they as soon as loved the change, now they’re a bit weary. 

“I’m not bothered that the road has taken this flip,” he clarifies. “I simply don’t wish to step outdoors and be immediately overwhelmed. I wish to select to take part on this – not have it’s my default setting.”