Xenokratous Street: Shopping at the Farmers’ Market and Dining at Historic Eateries

Whatever the day, Xenokratous is a stupendous avenue. On the slopes of Lycabettus Hill, close to Dexameni Sq., the Gennadius Library, and the American College of Classical Research, this tranquil tree-lined street intersected by public stairways provides gorgeous metropolis views. A stark distinction to the bustling heart only a brief distance away, it retains a historic attraction that also justifies its outdated nickname: “The Stunning Place”. Nevertheless, Fridays are significantly particular, as Xenokratous turns into a vibrant market the place consumers can discover distinctive native merchandise. What’s extra, the road is house to a number of of Athens’ most cherished eating places, great eateries which have stood the take a look at of time.

Friday Morning on the Farmers’ Market

The scent of freshly picked flowers that adorn Kostas’ market stall fills the air. He personally gathers wild greens from the mountains and grows his personal greens, together with each broccoli and cabbage. He’s simply one of many many devoted farmers who arrange their stalls early each Friday morning, persevering with a convention that dates again to 1939. At this time, the market boasts a big selection of contemporary produce, together with tangerines, oranges, purple carrots, kale and distinctive kinds of mushrooms. 

Panagiotis Bakos’ stall is a must-visit; it provides all the pieces from contemporary shiitake and king oyster mushrooms to the uncommon “lion’s mane” selection with its distinct meaty texture, all grown in Arcadia at his household’s farm. Close by, Antonis Triantafyllopoulos proudly shows a number of beautiful Greek cheeses, lots of that are troublesome to search out even in specialty shops. His stock contains uncommon Aegean varieties such because the skotyri or the “Homer Trilogy” from Ios’ famend Niotiko dairy, together with volaki from Andros, genuine spicy kopanisti from Mykonos, and aged graviera from Naxos. He additionally shares contemporary butter from the Tositsa Basis.

“It was my dream to hunt out and produce to market the most effective merchandise our nation has to supply,” says Triantafyllopoulos, a former journalist who switched careers to pursue this ardour. Lately, he could be discovered at varied farmers’ markets throughout Athens, together with these at Xenokratous and Neos Kosmos. A passing buyer calls out “I grew up in a small village, and these cheeses remind me of house,” which places a smile on Triantafyllopoulos’ face. “Nostalgia and style,” he calls again, “what an ideal mixture!”

Eating places That Really feel Like Residence

For over a century, Filipou has been a staple of the neighborhood. Established in 1923 by Konstantinos Filipou as an icehouse and a coal store, it later turned a humble taverna well-known for its selfmade wine; the taverna’s wine even gained a gold medal in 1935. Over time, the venue established a repute as a traditional Greek eatery, identified for its conventional slow-cooked dishes, together with lentil soup and bean stew, which stay buyer favorites. At this time, Patricia Filipou and her daughters Cynthia and Marianna proceed the household legacy, making certain that each meal is ready with the identical care and a spotlight to element. Regulars deal with it as their second house, usually having fun with plates of pastitsio or moussaka within the quiet firm of a newspaper or ebook.

Apostolos Gerodimos, proprietor of one other beloved traditional, To Omorfo, understands what such eateries signify to their trustworthy patrons. “Throughout one renovation, numerous prospects got here by, anxious that we’d change one thing concerning the place. In fact, I didn’t, nor do I ever intend to – I really feel I don’t have the correct to,” he says. Based in 1936 by an Epirus native from Konitsa, the restaurant initially operated as a small café-taverna earlier than shifting to its present location in 1964. It was later taken over by the Gerodimos household, first by Vasilis and his spouse Chrysa, and later by their son Apostolos, who virtually grew up within the kitchen.

“I’ve a photograph of the restaurant from when there have been no condo buildings round – Lycabettus was nonetheless a quarry, and the realm was a grazing floor, which is why it was known as ‘Goat Fields’ or ‘Sheep Fields,’” Apostolos recounts. The restaurant was a favourite amongst politicians and artists, together with Melina Mercouri, Jules Dassin and Kostas Roussos. Many traditional Greek movies had been shot alongside Xenokratous Avenue as properly, with native kids showing as extras. “Xenokratous nonetheless has a neighborhood really feel and an actual sense of city class,” Gerodimos says.

The restaurant’s menu varies, drawing on a spread over 150 conventional Greek dishes that rotate day by day. You may discover something from slow-cooked lamb with potatoes to spanakorizo (spinach rice), Kastoria-style baked beans, rooster soup with orzo, veal with zucchini in avgolemono sauce, or selfmade pies from Epirus. The one oil used is olive oil, and the subsequent day’s menu is barely determined the evening earlier than, based mostly on the freshest components out there.

Café de Paris or Nigiri?

One of many oldest and most esteemed French eating places in Athens, L’Abreuvoir has remained a favourite for many years. The place else are you able to get pleasure from an genuine entrecôte Café de Paris with crispy matchstick fries, steak tartare, tournedos Rossini, onion soup, escargots de Bourgogne, rustic coq au vin, or sole meunière, all served with the elegant rituals of traditional French eating? Over time, it has hosted numerous celebrities, together with Omar Sharif, Jean-Paul Belmondo, Aristotle Onassis and Maria Callas. Established in 1965 by French-educated Alexis Kotsis and his spouse Gianna, it stays within the arms of their kids, Spyros and Claire, who proceed its legacy. You should definitely order the chocolate soufflé upfront – it takes time to arrange, nevertheless it’s value each minute.

Kiku, one in all Athens’ pioneering Japanese eating places, has moved from Dimokritou Avenue to a brand new house on Xenokratous. The venue’s heat ambiance units the stage for an progressive menu that blends conventional nigiri and rolls with artistic influences from international delicacies. Pair your meal with a handcrafted cocktail or, even higher, select from their in depth number of saké.