Mt Parnitha: A Harmonious Blend of Nature and Adventure

I can’t fairly recall the precise second when Jella, the stray canine and everlasting resident of Mount Parnitha, joined our group. However from that time on, she stayed by our aspect virtually with out pause, proper up till the late afternoon when our Sunday hike got here to an finish. From the Bafi refuge, perched at 1,160 meters, the place we started our journey with our group of seven hikers, to the Flambouraki peak and at last to Mola, the luxurious habitat within the coronary heart of the nationwide park that we had set as our final vacation spot, Jella appeared decided to information us via her dwelling. At occasions, she would vanish among the many cedars and firs, and at others, she would take the lead, as if she have been our “official” information.

Yiannis Helis, following only a few meters behind her, has been residing on the mountain for the previous six years together with his household—his spouse Maria and their youngsters, Eleni and Panagiotis. He organizes hikes with the corporate Trekking Hellas and runs the 2 mountain refuges, Bafi and Flambouri, together with his cousin and enterprise accomplice, Stefanos Sidiropoulos. Throughout winter weekends, Athenians drive there for the contemporary mountain air and a heat plate of meals within the coronary heart of nature.

Only a 40-minute drive from the middle of Athens, Mount Parnitha is the closest nationwide park to a European capital—a singular characteristic that Athenians are more and more discovering and appreciating lately.

“Jella is a mountain canine; she is aware of all the paths of Parnitha. They feed and groom her at a home a little bit farther down, after which she heads up the mountain and walks for hours on finish,” says Maria. Beside her, Yiannis carries his three-year-old daughter on his again. Generally, the little woman factors to a tree with wide-eyed marvel; at different occasions, she listens intently to the tune of a chook. Sometimes, she falls asleep, oblivious to nature’s ceaseless exercise.

To fulfill them, we took a brief drive to the cable automobile station at On line casino Mont Parnes. As we received nearer, passing via the Acharnes space, our environment started to be paying homage to northern Greece’s rural landscapes—the bottom of the mountain is dotted with tavernas, weatherworn billboards and chimneys. However there’s one distinction.

The wildfires of 2023, together with these of 2007 and 2021, have left lasting scars on Parnitha’s panorama the place destruction and renewal dance collectively in a putting, complicated mosaic. But Jella strikes with a confidence that implies she is aware of each twist, each secret of the terrain. Her wagging tail sometimes flicks, urging us to observe.

Forward lies a journey of about two and a half kilometers to Flambouraki Peak, our first main cease.

A Deer Scratcher

“Greeks are beginning to be extra receptive to the thought of spending time on the mountains. Customer numbers are rising,” says Yiannis. “Simply yesterday, we noticed ten youngsters climbing via the mist with their dad and mom. Two years in the past, you’d by no means see a stroller on the paths. Some persons are bothered by this elevated exercise as a result of they need the mountains to themselves. But it surely makes me blissful. It’s fantastic to see different youngsters get the possibility to expertise what my very own youngster will get to take pleasure in regularly.”

This rise in guests isn’t restricted to Parnitha; different mountains are beginning to see extra site visitors too. “On Mount Olympus, the mountain refuges are absolutely booked for the subsequent two years,” Yiannis notes. He stresses the significance of teaching folks about nature from a younger age. Correct preparation earlier than hitting the paths and respect for the atmosphere are each important.

Parnitha provides a wide range of climbing trails, whether or not with a information or by yourself—as long as you intend forward. There are difficult routes, like Skipiza and Chouni, in addition to extra relaxed paths that move the on line casino, the 2 mountain refuges, and Mola. In the present day, we’re following considered one of these scenic round routes.

Not lengthy into our hike, we come throughout a tree stripped of its bark. “This can be a deer scratcher,” Yiannis says, drawing the group’s consideration to the marks. Parnitha is dwelling to the purple deer, and yearly, the males shed their antlers to develop new ones. The itching that comes with this course of drives them to rub their antlers towards bushes, a habits that additionally helps mark their territory. “Previously, you would see the deer hairs caught to the tree,” Yiannis continues. “The comfortable velvet from the contemporary antlers would cling to the resin. But it surely’s been years since we’ve seen that.” 

In the present day, recognizing a purple deer on Parnitha has turn into more and more uncommon. Many have seemingly sought new, safer areas to cover from the wolves, whose presence has turn into extra pronounced on the mountain. Some deer, together with foxes, had grown accustomed to human-provided meals—an unhealthy behavior for wildlife. However, as with all issues in nature, each change creates a ripple impact. The deer’s migration has led to sooner soil regeneration, notably in areas the place they as soon as grazed on small crops and flowers in burned sections of the forest.

Now awake from her brief nap, Little Eleni brushes her fingers alongside the ideas of the fir branches above her. Each three units of branches signify one yr of life. The younger shrub in entrance of us, six or seven years outdated, wasn’t as fortunate. The seed that birthed it traveled via the air earlier than lodging in a patch of soil that was too uncovered to the solar. On some fir bushes, we additionally discover mistletoe, the pale parasite that feeds off the tree’s sap. It sticks to the branches like chook droppings, finally inflicting illness that weakens and consumes the tree.

“Sooner or later, it is going to die,” Yiannis says. “However that’s pure. We should not intervene.”

“A Completely different God on the Mountain”

A number of meters forward, we come throughout a spring. Beneath regular circumstances, water could be flowing freely from it. It’s mid-December, but the rocks beneath our ft aren’t slippery. “The earth is thirsty,” Yiannis remarks. “You don’t see any mushrooms. This time of yr, the forest ought to be filled with them.” Organic assessments have decided that 90% of Parnitha’s water sources are unsuitable, as there isn’t sufficient steady movement to cleanse the springs. “This has turn into extra pronounced within the final six years. There’s no rain, no snow. All the pieces is altering,” he says emphatically.

Previously, Parnitha would have been lined with snow by December. Now, there’s some snowfall after the Christmas holidays, typically as late as February and even March. The erratic climate patterns have made forecasting more and more tough. “It’d rain relentlessly for 4 days, then snow for the subsequent 4, and get sunny the day after that,” Yiannis explains. “Spring and autumn have virtually disappeared.”

Maria tries to elucidate to her daughter, who’s puzzled by how a lot the sky has modified since yesterday. “In the present day, it’s a distinct god on the mountain. Yesterday, it was Winter; at present, it’s Spring,” she tells her.

Jella approaches from a distance, trying barely impatient resulting from our delay. As soon as the group catches as much as her, she resumes her lead, this time guiding us to her favourite spot: Flambouraki Peak. She settles to relaxation below a Greek flag that flutters within the wind. From this vantage level, the whole Attica basin unfolds earlier than us. A hazy layer of smog hangs over the buildings, and the solar’s rays pierce via the clouds, illuminating the neighborhoods of town. We will see Hymettus, Tatoi, Lake Marathon, Chalkida, Thebes, Evia, with and Penteli.

A hawk glides previous us, its wings immobile because it hovers in an arc. When you hint its flight, you may observe the scars left by every of the wildfires over the previous 20 years. The fireplace of 2007 was probably the most devastating, burning 70% of the fir forest. Maria recollects the sensation of uncertainty throughout the newest fires. She was pregnant throughout each. When she left, she by no means knew if her dwelling would nonetheless be standing when she returned. “And even whether it is, what does it matter if every thing round it has burned?” she says. “Our dwelling isn’t the refuge; it’s the mountain.”

Throughout the winters, only a few sturdy gusts of wind are sufficient to unsettle her daughter. “Mother, will the mountain burn?” Eleni asks.

“We will’t dwell on the fires. The forest regenerates. Let’s defend what’s making an attempt to be born,” Yiannis provides earlier than we depart.

The one untouched a part of the nationwide park, deep throughout the reserve, is Mola. That will likely be our subsequent vacation spot.

First, we take a break on the Flambouri refuge, sipping sizzling espresso and having fun with conventional cheese pie, surrounded by new teams of associates and households who’ve parked their automobiles close by to stroll the brief 20-minute path to the refuge. Kostas, Peni, and their three youngsters settle into the grime. “We’re bored with playgrounds,” they are saying. They drove an hour from Ilioupoli to get right here. “The final time we went to Bafi, we noticed deer on the street,” Peni recollects. “We’ve taken the children to the Attica Zoological Park, however seeing an animal in its pure atmosphere is an incomparable expertise.”

Beneath a close-by pavilion, we meet Nikos, who’s ready for his associates. “I’ve been in Athens for 2 months, residing in Koukaki, however I come to the mountain as usually as I can—virtually each weekend,” he says. Life within the metropolis has been troublesome for him. “I really feel sick within the metropolis. Parnitha is virtually unspoiled, and I can get there comparatively rapidly,” he provides.

Jella, who has been circling round us this entire time, provides me a understanding look. It’s time to maneuver on.

Uncommon Vegetation and Remedy

The very first thing we discover as we method Mola is the road of parked automobiles stretching alongside the aspect of the street. However quickly sufficient, the busy scene fades, giving strategy to an idyllic panorama. Earlier than getting into the luxurious habitat, we cease by the small chapel of Aghios Petros, considered one of many chapels scattered throughout Parnitha that have been initially constructed as shelters for shepherds.

Stefanos Sidiropoulos, co-owner of the mountain refuges alongside Yiannis, factors out the most important climbing routes obtainable from there. For these with stamina, there’s the path lined with poplars, which ascends all the best way to the Air Power base. Hikers also can take a round route round Parnitha to the Skypiza fireplace lookout. For extra seasoned trekkers, there’s the jap path that results in Malakasa and Avlona.

As we enter the habitat, we’re instantly struck by the towering fir bushes. The air is damp, and we really feel the moisture seep into our bones. Lichens, moss, and mushrooms cling to the trunks of the traditional bushes, whereas the solar’s rays, barely in a position to pierce the thick cover, scatter into small patches of sunshine on the forest flooring. The scene looks like one thing out of a Tarkovsky movie.

A clearing opens up in the course of the forest, revealing a small lake surrounded by dense foliage. The Cephalonian fir, which will be discovered solely above 800 meters on Parnitha, is likely one of the causes the mountain was designated a nationwide park. It thrives in chilly and humid situations, and in Spring, when the firs sprout their new development, their pale inexperienced branches create an virtually phosphorescent glow throughout the panorama.

Angela, our fellow hiker and information from Trekking Hellas, explains that Greece is dwelling to six,000 completely different species and subspecies of crops. Of these, 1,100 will be discovered on Parnitha. “There are 90 endemic species discovered solely in Greece, three of which exist solely on Parnitha,” she tells us.

Probably the most lovely amongst them is the bellflower, a uncommon wildflower species that grows on rocks, its tiny purple blossoms including colour to the rugged terrain. “I’ve guided folks on Parnitha ranging in age from 8 to 75,” Angela continues. “One younger girl cried earlier than we left. She was overwhelmed by the sheer variety of pictures she had taken in, utterly relaxed and de-stressed. Final yr, there was a physician who got here right here each Sunday. She instructed me, ‘I come to recharge my batteries so I can endure the remainder of the week.’”

“This Is All of Athens”

After climbing down from Yiannis’s again, Little Eleni decides to splash round within the puddles. As she soaks herself utterly, her spontaneous laughter rings out via the air, pure and joyful. However as evening begins to fall, the chilly units in, reminding us it’s time to return to the automobiles. Close by, we spot a fir tree embellished with a string of purple plastic ornaments. Some well-meaning dad and mom should have thought it an important thought to create a dwell Christmas show for his or her youngsters. They have been so happy with the end result that they left it, uncovered to the weather, for all to see.

In spring, Mola will likely be alive with households having fun with picnics. Guests will park their automobiles proper in entrance of the limitations, obstructing entry for firefighting autos in case of an emergency. We meet three associates—Thomas, Niki, and Christina—on the exit with their youngsters. They’re clearly annoyed by the big variety of folks on the mountain at present. “That is all of Athens,” they are saying, gesturing on the sea of automobiles. “We will’t inform if we’ve come to the mountain or to Kifisia for espresso.”

The problem of managing crowds on Sundays, Yiannis tells us, is changing into increasingly urgent.

After bidding farewell to our fellow hikers, we make one final cease earlier than leaving the mountain: the Park of Souls, positioned reverse the deserted Xenia Lodge. This web site was as soon as dwelling to a sanatorium within the 1910s, the place tuberculosis sufferers, together with the poet Yiannis Ritsos, have been cared for. When penicillin arrived, the sanatorium declined, finally working as a resort and later as a tourism college till it was deserted in 1985.

Throughout from this spot, in 2012, artist Spyridon Dassiotis used felled trunks of 500- and 600-year-old fir bushes from the “Park of Giants”—bushes that had been consumed within the 2007 fireplace—to create a sequence of picket sculptures. As soon as, there have been many. They captured the reminiscences and souls of the individuals who had handed via the sanatorium. In the present day, most of them have been devoured by woodworms. Just one stays standing, alongside a metallic angel that was added later. The angel gazes on the hills as if in prayer.

With this picture in thoughts, we depart Parnitha behind. Earlier than boarding the cable automobile, I glanced round for Jella, however she was nowhere to be discovered. She should have slipped off to a different path, maybe irritated that we had fallen behind once more.