Exploring Attica’s Oldest Olive Grove

1000’s upon hundreds of olive bushes stretch so far as the attention can see between the Gerania Mountains and Mount Pateras, which is an extension of Mount Parnitha. Although not usually recognized, the biggest surviving historical olive grove in Attica is positioned in Megara, particularly within the Kapsalos space by which we’re at the moment passing.

Elias Peggos, an agronomist who has been systematically finding out the area’s olive bushes for the previous decade, stops at applicable factors to point out us a number of the most spectacular ones. These olive bushes are millennia previous, with trunks like elaborate sculptures. In sure situations, we even rely as much as 5 trunks surrounding the area occupied centuries in the past by the tree’s authentic trunk. In others, the tree’s trunk takes on the form of an arch or coils with the distinctive appeal that olive bushes develop over the course of centuries.

Elias has documented roughly 100 historical olive bushes in Megara and completely researched their historical past and connection to the land. He exhibits me two bushes dozens of meters away and asks me to inform which one belongs to the Black Timber selection. That is an historical olive species that thrives in Megara; its darker foliage distinguishes it from the Megaritic, the first native selection. I’m scanning the horizon to see if I can spot any extra Black Timber, and I’m impressed by their unfold. This visibility is enhanced by the bushes’ sparse planting, which, as Elias explains, is because of a regulation that was enacted by Athenian lawmaker Solon (c. 630-560 BC), requiring nine-meter gaps between their trunks.

This olive grove bears the imprints of much more latest historic occasions. After I ask Elias in regards to the numbers on the trunks of most olive bushes, he explains that they seek advice from the homeowners. These very small properties emerged as every household made positive to distribute its wealth in such a manner that every one members acquired bushes in probably the most fertile components of the grove. Since historical instances, the realm has acquired little rainfall, making cultivation troublesome. One other distinctive function of Megara that enhances this image is the unique irrigation system constructed by Eupalinos.

That is stated to have been the primary main mission undertaken by the traditional engineer from Megara, and the town relied on it for water till the Sixties. It was made up of a community of stone conduits buried a number of meters underground. Rainwater was filtered by pure rocks earlier than flowing by a large community of pipes into the town.

We exit the olive grove and are available throughout a plot of land sown with dill. I have a look at Elias in amazement, and he explains that some growers plant different species alongside the olive bushes. Certainly, Megara was well-known in antiquity for its onion and garlic manufacturing. Regardless that he’s professionally concerned within the cultivation of his household’s crops, he stays dedicated to defending and selling Attica’s most vital historical olive grove.

The seashell stone

One other shock awaits guests in Megara’s olive grove: seven Byzantine church buildings hidden among the many bushes. It’s thought that sooner or later of their historical past, presumably following one of many area’s highly effective earthquakes, the folks of Megara moved their metropolis to this location. The gorgeous Byzantine church buildings, comparable to the Church of Christos (Christ) and the Church of Aghios Athanasios, are all that is still from that settlement at the moment. Exploring their exterior, you discover that the stone used to construct them bears quite a few seashell imprints. The seashell stone, as it’s recognized, was ample in Megara, a area that was under sea degree millennia in the past.

The Byzantine church of Aghios Georgios and the traditional olive grove present one of the vital spectacular examples of the “dialogue” between people and the weather of nature: a lot of the church’s partitions have collapsed, permitting us to see the altar with its marble columns proper subsequent to the traditional olive bushes. The encircling space is named Anapnoes (Breaths), presumably because of the abundance of moist wells from Eupalinos’ drainage system on this location.

The vineyards that “guard” the olive bushes

Along with olive bushes, the folks of Megara used to depart their kids vineyards. This “inheritance” may be loved by anybody who travels to the Gerania Mountains. Christos Koulouriotis explains that the standard varieties grown within the space are Savvatiano, Roditis, and Mouchtaro. He produces gentle intervention wines at his small vineyard, The Knack Undertaking.

We climb right into a four-wheel drive and head up the filth highway in the direction of the realm of Sora, the place Christos’s most mountainous winery is positioned. The view from 630 meters above sea degree is spectacular, extending so far as Aegina and Diaporia.

Christos asks me if I’ve ever heard the time period “katourigia” whereas strolling by the vineyards, that are brimming with new progress. It refers back to the layering approach, by which a viticulturist sinks a shoot underneath the soil and permits it to emerge elsewhere, ensuing within the formation of recent roots. The acute temperature variation between day and night time on this location, considered one of Attica’s most mountainous winery areas, aids within the manufacturing of high-quality wine.

Descending in the direction of Mourtiza at 330 meters, the panorama adjustments dramatically each few kilometers, from pine bushes and rocky peaks to light, lush slopes with fruit bushes and ample vineyards. Alongside the way in which, we move many half-collapsed stone farmhouses, the place Megarians as soon as had their household wine presses.

To go to the Byzantine church buildings of Megara’s historical olive grove, start at Exo Vryssi Sq. and head north on Aghias Varvaras Avenue. Three blocks up, on the intersection with Archbishop Christodoulos Avenue, there’s a part of Eupalinos’ historical water system, in addition to a plaque explaining its goal. Return to Aghias Varvaras Avenue and observe the indicators to the Byzantine church buildings of Christos (Christ), Aghios Athanasios, and Aghios Georgios.

The Knack Undertaking vineyard may be visited by appointment (Tel. (+30) 694.461.7434); in Gerania, you can too discover the Evharis Property (Tel. (+30) 22960.903.46).

This text was beforehand printed at ekathimerini.com.