Syros’ Hidden Soul: The Timeless Charm of Apano Meria

Apano Meria encompasses 22 sq. kilometers, forming the northern half of Syros. Historically the agricultural heartland for the residents of Ano Syros, it stays one of the crucial untouched areas within the Cyclades. As a part of the Natura 2000 protected community, Apano Meria is likely one of the most preserved areas within the Cyclades, with restricted paved roads main from Ano Syros to small villages like San Michalis and Kampos. Historic trails, nonetheless traversed by the island’s few remaining shepherds, wind by means of the panorama, revealing hidden spots and secluded corners that invite exploration.

Swiss geology professor Martin Engi Riedtmann, who has spent a long time finding out Syros’ geological formations, describes its geology as globally distinctive. Two uncommon rock varieties, eclogite and glaucophane schist, exemplify this distinctiveness.

Eclogite, initially a volcanic rock that was fashioned 40 to 50 million years in the past, underwent an entire chemical transformation below immense strain. Glaucophane schist, or blueschist, is understood for its vibrant blue hue and was fashioned in the course of the subduction of the African tectonic plate beneath the European plate. These exceptional formations emerged from depths of 80 kilometers, making them true geological wonders.

To have a good time and share the importance of those formations, Professor Engi, in collaboration with the College of the Aegean, is growing a community of geological trails and a customer info middle. These initiatives, anticipated to launch by autumn 2025, purpose to supply guests a chance to discover and respect Syros’ extraordinary geological heritage.

The Treasures of the Trails

The mountain climbing trails of northern Syros beckon adventurers to discover their pure and cultural riches. The Social Cooperative Enterprise “Apano Meria,” devoted to preserving and selling this distinctive space, collaborates with the Syros Mountain climbing Group to information guests by means of the area’s hidden gems. On a sunny September Sunday, I joined Io Stavridi, Marina Konstantopoulou, and Andrianos Pappas, members of “Apano Meria,” for a stroll alongside the path that begins in Kampos and ends on the secluded seaside of Lia.

We greeted one of many island’s few remaining shepherds as he fed his sheep and goats, rigorously securing the gate behind us to maintain the animals of their pasture. As we descended, terraced fields as soon as used for rising barley and greens got here into view, interspersed with the fragrant scent of herbs thriving among the many shrubs. The path led us to a formidable, jet-black boulder standing tall like a pure menhir. Up shut, its floor revealed a shocking play of colours – deep brown, inexperienced, purple, and crimson. This extraordinary rock was eclogite, one of many rarest and most exceptional geological formations of Apano Meria.

Additional alongside, we encountered glaucophane schist, identified for its vibrant blue tones, and the stays of an previous lime kiln as soon as utilized by locals to provide lime. Reaching the tranquil seaside of Lia, Io defined that the dearth of street infrastructure has been very important in preserving the untouched great thing about the northern seashores.

“Apano Meria” additionally organizes instructional walks alongside the path community, highlighting cultural and geological landmarks. These excursions typically embody elevating consciousness amongst schoolchildren about correct waste administration and recycling, fostering a deeper appreciation for the setting.

One of many key venues for the cooperative’s cultural actions is Ktima Pomonia, located on the fringe of the Papouri settlement. Strolling alongside an enthralling dry-stone wall, we arrived at a small farmhouse the place Kostas Vasilakis, the proprietor, welcomed us. He recounted the summer time live shows and cultural occasions held within the open-air theater, set towards the beautiful backdrop of the Aegean Sea and the island of Kea.

As we strolled amongst vineyards and fruit timber, indicators of this summer time’s extended drought have been clear, underscoring the challenges confronted by Syros’ natural farmers. The delicate native ecosystem additionally serves as a sanctuary for migratory birds, together with buzzards, Montagu’s harriers, golden eagles, bee-eaters, and hoopoes, making Apano Meria a haven for nature lovers and birdwatchers alike.

San Michalis: A Step Again in Time

Winding by means of the few paved kilometers of street, we arrive at San Michalis, the liveliest settlement in Apano Meria. The village, with its fewer than a dozen homes and retailers, feels remarkably compact but filled with character. Life right here strikes to the rhythm of the semi-mountainous environment, providing residents the posh of peace and quiet. Relying on which facet of the village they name house, they’re handled to views of neighboring islands both to the east or west.

San Michalis can also be house to the vineyard of oenologist and winemaker Nikos Chatzakis, who made Syros his base in 2011. Beneath the fig tree the place tastings happen, we maintain up glasses of white wine, marveling on the greenish glint it takes on below the mushy glow of Syros’ autumn skies.

On his 15,000-square-meter winery, Nikos cultivates primarily the Serifitiko grape, coaxing exceptional outcomes from this indigenous Cycladic selection regardless of its pure limitations. His vineyard sometimes produces round 35,000 bottles yearly, however this yr’s harvest has been considerably diminished. Small-scale winemaking comes with its personal set of challenges, from the impacts of local weather change to a shortage of labor. But, even within the face of adversity and rising demand, Nikos refuses to boost his costs. This philosophy completely mirrors the essence of Apano Meria: a spot of rugged magnificence and quiet resilience.

As we sit and watch fluffy white clouds mirrored within the tranquil waters of the ocean, a deep sense of calm washes over us. Right here, regardless of the mounting pressures of the world, sure issues stay unchanged – preserving their genuine allure and timeless attract.

The Grandeur of Seclusion

Following the only slim path that winds by means of San Michalis, we move by means of a towering rock formation, rising to a spectacular view of the ocean, with Andros, Tinos, and Mykonos glimmering on the horizon. Beside the chapel of Aghios Michalis sits a stone-carved desk, a relic of an easier time when locals gathered right here to talk, play tic-tac-toe, and lose themselves within the expanse of the Aegean.

A couple of steps away is Steadi, a family-run café that appears like moving into a conventional Cycladic farmhouse. At its picket gate, we’re warmly greeted by Fransiskos, whose household – spanning three generations – shares fascinating tales about this tiny settlement in Apano Meria. From the story of the village’s solely everlasting resident who hasn’t left in 30 years, not even for a haircut, to the small-scale farmers preserving heirloom seeds and rising drought-resistant crops, the café appears like a residing archive of native historical past.

Steadi takes its title from the normal shelter that after protected villagers from fierce northern winds, serving as a gathering level for night conversations. Its courtyard is adorned with artifacts from a long time of agricultural life, whereas a rigorously crafted opening within the jap stone wall invitations a cooling breeze and frames an ideal slice of the cobalt sky and sea – a serene second suspended in time.

This sense of tranquil isolation extends to the jap reaches of San Michalis, the place the historic websites of Chalandriani and Kastri are nestled. These Early Cycladic settlements, which flourished round 2300 BCE, embody one of many largest prehistoric cemeteries within the Cyclades at Chalandriani. Regardless of their historic significance, each websites stay underexplored as vacationer locations. Whereas elements of Chalandriani are accessible by street, the journey to Kastri requires a demanding hour-long hike, rewarding guests with a profound connection to the island’s historic previous.

Within the close by village of Lygero, Cycladic gastronomy is given a contemporary twist. Right here, cooks Theodoros Kassavetis and Stelios Theodorakis have opened their eponymous taverna, mixing up to date culinary creativity with the traditions of Apano Meria. They supply meat from native farmers, bake dishes in a wood-fired oven, and embrace the area’s unhurried rhythm, making a eating expertise that feels each genuine and elevated.

As nightfall falls and the sparse lights of the village flicker to life on the hillside, the moon rises from the ocean, casting its glow throughout the quiet panorama. At this second, the world appears to contract into the intimate scale of the Cyclades, a reminder that their enduring magnificence lies of their simplicity and understated grandeur.